I’ve been to Bali, too.

May 25th, 2010

The Viceroy, UbudI never wanted to go to Bali. I steered clear of the ‘Island of the Gods’ because I always thought it was more like ‘Island of the Yobs’. I imagined Bali to be full of seriously inebriated Aussies in Bintang singlets drinking buckets of iridescent cocktails in the Fair Dinkum Bonza Koala Bar. Okay, that pretty well sums up the crowd at Kuta Beach, but I’ve been to Bali three times in the past 18 months and become totally intoxicated by the place (and that intoxication had nothing to do with iridescent cocktails). And, if it wasn’t for my new book that I am writing (re-tracing the original Lonely Planet South East Asia on a Shoestring), then I may not have gone to Bali at all. Not only is the island itself so incredibly beautiful (lush green mountains, terraced rice fields, stunning beaches etc etc), but the people are the warmest, kindest most gentle folk I have met in all my travels. Then there is the food, and the culture, and the temples… and, of course, the cheap iridescent cocktails!

I got back yesterday from another magical trip to Bali (sorry I didn’t blog when I was away, but I really don’t like sitting in internet cafes with other travellers updating their facebook status). Last year when I won Travel Book of the Year I also ‘won’ a bunch of nights at any one of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World and I chose to stay at the The Viceroy in Ubud and the The Bale in Nusa Dua (plus we threw in a few nights on the Gili Islands in between). Both hotels (I’d call them hotels rather than resorts although they have all the resort facilities) were luxurious beyond words (or any words I can think of at least).

We (my girlfriend Beth and I) began our extraordinarily extravagant escape at The Viceroy in Ubud. Our villa (there are only 11 very private villas at the Viceroy) overlooked a deep ravine thick with jungle (and monkeys). It was all those little ‘touches’ that made it extraordinary, though. There were the usual luxurious touches like monogrammed bathrobes, chocolates on the pillow, fluffy towels and slippers, but there was also indoor and outdoor showers that could fit four or five people, a private (heated) swimming pool, personal driver and a telephone in the toilet. Oh, and there is a helicopter pad next to reception (pity my helicopter was in for repair last week).

Next we scummed it in the Gili Islands (our room didn’t come with a ‘turn down service’). But, it was just as magical with breakfast served in a little hut right over the water and we rode bikes around the Island, swam in the crystal clear waters, went snorkelling, ate great fresh seafood and got offered to buy magic mushrooms a lot.

We ended our tropical treat at the The Bale in Nusa Dua. I knew we were in for some serious luxury when our chauffeur picked us up from the port. First he handed us a flower scented wet towel followed by ice cold water and a bowl of gourmet nuts served on a silver tray. Our ‘pavillion’ was seriously bigger that my apartment – even our private pool was bigger than my apartment! Our ‘deluxe pavillion’ even included a 24-hour butler. A butler! We did feel a bit strange calling on our butler, though (we could shine our own shoes). I could go on and on, but it will just make you jealous when I tell you about our free massages, breakfast and dinner in our private villa, beach club with sunbed service, personal driver and, best of all, a cookie jar that was replenished twice a day.

So, it’s a bit depressing now – we’re back to cold wintry Melbourne and the next time we travel it will back to cheap guesthouses with no slippers… or cookie jars.

And here’s a few pics to make you even more jealous:

The Viceroy, Ubud
Our own private pool and ‘breakfast hut’ – The Viceroy, Ubud

The Viceroy, Ubud
The main pool – The Viceroy, Ubud

Ubud
Lunch with a view – outside of Ubud

Ubud
The lunch – Nasi Campur

Lunch in Ubud
Another lunch in Ubud – we didn’t eat the head, though.

Ferry to Gili T
The boat to the Gili Islands arrives ’some day’

Coral Beach 1, Gili Trawangan
Our ‘breakfast hut’ – Coral Beach 1, Gili Trawangan

Coral beach 1, Gili Trawangan
The view from our ‘breakfast hut’

Gili Trawangan
Horse & buggy and bicycle are the only ‘modes’ of transport on the Gili Islands.

Gili Air
Gili Air (there are three ‘Gili’ Islands in the group – Gili Trawangan, Gili Air and Gili Meno)

Lombok
Lombok (a fleeting visit)

The Balé
Our room at The Balé, Nusa Dua

The Balé
Our own private garden and pool at The Balé

The Balé
Breakfast served in our private garden (yes, what an indulgence!)

The Balé
Dinner in our own private garden (yes, that’s just way too much indulgence!)

7 Responses to “I’ve been to Bali, too.”

  • On May 25th, 2010 Epiphanie said:

    Marvelous photos! Loved the ones with the verdant rice fields that are like steps… yay for private swimming pools and endlessly refilled cookie jars, haha!

    I’ve stayed in a resorty place in Thailand but Bali is obviously with a charm all of its own… I hadn’t heard much about the character of the people, so your thoughts on them are encouraging. The level of hospitality I can expect often plays a big role in my travel decisions.
    I was also reluctant to consider Bali as destination worthy of my attention a few years ago – the proximity to Australia coupled with the religions of Indonesia kind of put me off, and then there were the concerns about terrorism which didn’t help – but then I researched it and was very impressed by the temples and scenery, so it’s on my list now… unfortunately that list is very long, so I don’t know when I’ll get there! But hopefully, I will… ’some day’ ;) Lol

    Btw, I just got ‘Planes, Trains & Elephants’ and it’s hilarious! :D

  • On May 26th, 2010 Anthony, The Travel Tart said:

    Hi Brian, looks awesome!

    Before I talk about Indonesia more, your readers might be interested in the interview I had with you recently! Check it out!

    http://www.thetraveltart.com/brian-thacker-interview-funny-possie-travel-writer/

    But there is so much more to Indonesia than Bali! There’s truckloads of stuff to do on Sumatra and Java, but it takes time!

    I checked out quite a lot of these 2 islands on a month long blogging trip in 2009, where I stayed with members of local blogging communities and saw their Indonesia. You can view the feed of the trip here!

    http://www.thetraveltart.com/category/special-events/pestablogger-2009/

    Cheers,

    Anthony, The Travel Tart

  • On May 26th, 2010 Brian Thacker said:

    Hi Epiphanie

    Yes, Bali is definitely worth a visit (just stay away from Kuta and Legian). And yes, there are lots of tourists (and drunk Aussies), but it is so easy to get away from that and find the ‘real’ Bali.

    And Anthony, I couldn’t agree more. I had a wonderful time in Java and Sumatra – and not a Bintang singlet in sight! You can check out my blogs about Java and Sumatra here:

    http://www.brianthacker.tv/blog/the-best-fruit-salad-in-southeast-asia/

    http://www.brianthacker.tv/blog/583/

    http://www.brianthacker.tv/blog/and-its-burn-burn-burn-ring-of-fire/

    http://www.brianthacker.tv/blog/i-took-my-wife-to-indonesia/

    cheers
    brian

  • On May 26th, 2010 Brian Thacker said:

    PS Anthony, thanks for posting the interview link!

  • On May 27th, 2010 Robyn said:

    looks great Brian but i think you still should have come to my 40th

  • On March 23rd, 2011 Marek said:

    Hi,

    do you know if there is any difference between Coral Beach 1 and Coral Beach 2 on gili Trawangan ?
    How we can get int touch/book accomodation over there.

    Photos looks briliant!!! Also from UBUD

    regards,
    Marek

  • On March 25th, 2011 Brian Thacker said:

    Hi Marek,

    Coral Beach 1 is closer to ‘town’ while Coral beach 2 is a beautiful quiet spot about a 15 minute walk into the village. I prefer Coral beach 2 – they have those wonderful dining ‘huts’ over the water. You could probably just rock up and get a room if it isn’t hight season. Or try calling 0370 639946

    Have a great trip Marek
    cheers
    Brian

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